Istanbul’s old city along the Golden Horn was for many years the center of the Greek community, and still today it remains the home of the spiritual leader of the worldwide Orthodox Church. Each year, the small community celebrates Good Friday by opening its churches’ doors to worshippers and to guests, giving us the opportunity to enter the small, dearly-loved churches on an important festival when they are filled with atmosphere, flowers and ancient icons. Each church in the area is visited in person by Patriarch Barthlomew during Holy Week; he scatters symbolic Laurel leaves and blesses this ancient community remaining here from the days of Constantinople 

We will get an early start to capture the morning’s celebrations. Walking through the picturesque neighborhoods during this high holiday, we will observe the ancient rituals together with the few Rum (Greeks born in Turkey) who are still left in Istanbul. Our IWI partner, the local insider and photographer Monica Fritz, will help us to fully experience a very special day in our city. 

First, we will visit the Russian Orthodox church hidden away on the top floor of an apartment building in Karaköy - with its much more austere feeling. We go by ferry up the Golden Horn to visit the Sacred Springs of the church of the Virgin of Blachernae, built by the Empress Pulcherie in 450. Up and down through the small, hilly streets of Fener and Balat, we will enter secret gardens and courtyards, where places and people are seemingly touched by time and ancient traditions are held dear. 

We will take every opportunity we can to see Good Friday celebrations, and hopefully be able to observe and photograph some quite unique moments.